CHOOSING THE RIGHT OIL!

 
Textured hair is probably one of the biggest beneficiaries of hair moisturisers, including oils, and that’s for good reason. Well-noted, it’s probably the driest of all hair types, so it’s on a constant search for moisture, whether that's from the environment or the application of products.

When it comes to introducing oils to your routine, it’s completely okay to use hair oil daily, but it may not be necessary. It really depends on your specific texture. For curls that are super dry and feel like they are craving a continuous dose of moisture, a lighter penetrating oil like olive oil, grapeseed oil, may be your best bet. You’ll get the hydration minus that extra weight. If your hair is finer, daily use of any oil may compromise your style by weighing it down.

On the other end of the spectrum, the same oils being used on a more kinky coily hair types 4a-c may have the complete opposite effect, and hair may benefit greatly from daily oil application.

There are a few factors to keep in mind when finding the right oil for your hair, so before diving into using any one in particular, take note of what your natural hair needs, how the oils you choose will react with it, and vice versa.
 
Hair oils are all the rage, they’ve become more and more popular not only as hair care products you can pick up from large brands but also as DIY home remedies.

Who doesn’t love a cheaper, cleaner, chemical-free homemade solution to a problem? We sure do!

But it’s important to know exactly what oils you’re using and for what reason. Coconut oil may be trending, but is it a good fit for you?
There are two types of oils you can choose from when it comes to haircare: 
moisturising or sealing oils. 
They do very different things for your hair, so using them correctly is important!
    
 
                    
Oils that can moisturise or penetrate the hair shaft also leave a thin protective film over the cuticle layers. This means they also seal your hair, but they thin down throughout the day and disappear/soak in. You should also know that oils like coconut oil, olive oil, sunflower oil or avocado oil sink into the hair easier when heat is applied. So, if you want to achieve better results when using them grab your hooded dryer, hair dryer or heat them in your microwave and know that you’re doing the best for your hair.
Whether you choose a moisturising or sealing oil, it depends on your hair and what you want to achieve. In essence, all oils help to condition hair, they are good moisturisers even though they don’t have any water in them. In fact, they are hydrophobic, meaning that they repel, they don’t mix with water. What they are good at is in reducing water evaporation from inside the hair or in dry climates either by moisturising or sealing your hair. This is good because natural hair is thirsty for water, we need all we can get.
 
 
 
 
Vegetable oils are a quick and easy way to treat dry hair, however depending on your hair needs some will be better equipped to address those needs than others.
Vegetable oils are extracted from the seeds of plants to produce a viscous, lubricating liquid mainly composed of triglycerides. The list is extensive and there are many different oils such as coconut oil, olive oil, sesame oil, almond oil, macadamia oil, cocoa butter, shea butter or argan oil.
The use of vegetable oils in your hair is beneficial not only for the outer structure of the hair, the cuticle layers but also for its inner structure, the cortex. The cuticle layers of the hair can be easily damaged by manipulation, styling tools, chemical treatments or environmental factors. Applying oils to the hair will seal the hair and help to prevent and protect it from these damaging effects.
Other positive effects include added shine, hair lubrication which facilitates the detangling process and reduces the number of tangles in your hair, less split ends and minimal friction.
Having beautiful hair on the outside is nice, but if this beauty is not a reflection of inner health then it will be short lived. Healthy hair demands a healthy cortex! This is the largest/thickest component of the hair and it’s also the cortex that provides the hair with its strength and elasticity. When oil is applied to the hair it is essentially reinforcing these characteristics. Oils will give your curly hair its bounce, they increase its tensile properties. In other words, your hair when stretched will be able to sustain tension and go back to its original shape without breaking or losing form. However, not all oils are created equal.
 
The answer is yes, but only certain oils. Some oils are thinner than others and can actually penetrate the hair to provide moisture, while others serve the sole purpose of sealing in moisture. Both are beneficial to dry hair, but its important to know which you are working with. Firstly, let’s talk about moisturising oils.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Moisturising oils are capable of penetrating your hair cuticle and help to lock moisture inside your hair. Typically, the oils that are going to give hair the most hydrating benefits are ones that are thinner and can actually seep into dehydrated strands. To do this, the molecules that make up the oil have to be small enough to penetrate the hair. There are not that many oils that have this structure. Those that do, are not only tiny enough to get inside and replenish moisture, but they also each have appealing benefits that help boost hair health. At the same time, they prevent too much water from entering and damaging the cuticle.
Moisture is one of the key elements needed to strengthen your hair and prevent breakage. You can use these types of oils by themselves, or by adding them to water or a leave-conditioner to help distribute them evenly through your hair. If you use these oils sparingly, you can leave them in your hair because they actually disappear without living a sticky film They make for a great pre-shampoo or sealant and you can also use them as hot oil treatments!
 
Considered a super food due to its unique combination of fatty acids, vitamins, saturated fat and antioxidants it has anti-viral, anti-bacterial and anti-fungal abilities so it’s good to help treat any scalp conditions you have such as dandruff or psoriasis, it promotes hair growth and a healthy scalp.
Renown, for its nourishing properties coconut oil is one of the most popular hair care oils on the market. This lightweight oil is absorbed by the hair, and it’s a great way of preventing protein loss (that leads to dryness) and hygral fatigue (excess water intake in hair). It’s an excellent moisturiser and as mentioned above, moisture works wonders against breakage an gives the hair a healthy shine! BUT coconut oil is not for everyone depending on your curl/hair type this oil can be your arch enemy or the best oil you've ever used.
I recommend an unrefined extra virgin coconut oil; it’s the least processed and ideal for helping to replenish moisture in dry hair. It’s one of the few oils that can both penetrate and seal. Although, while it can get beneath the surface, the amount that actually goes in is questionable, so it’s best applied as part of the LOC method i.e., mixed with a water-based leave-in conditioner to seal the hair. The water works as a carrier for better absorption.

Coconut oil is also great for high porosity hair that soaks up product but doesn’t necessarily hold moisture very well. The natural proteins in coconut oil help fortify the gaps to better seal in moisture and ultimately prevent damage.
 
You will find many shampoos, conditioners, and styling treatments infused with avocado oil. This oil is brimming with great hair beautifying ingredients such as vitamin A, B, C, E, biotin, oleic and fatty acids. Eating avocados or applying the actual fruit to your hair as a mask is also beneficial, but the oil is not only good to ingest but also as a tool to reduce dandruff, detangle your hair and fight breakage, resulting in thicker, stronger, longer hair. Thanks to its conditioning prowess, it can penetrate the shaft of coily and kinky hair types and create an environment for hair to flourish and delay ageing. Try it as a pre-poo or as a weekly deep conditioning treatment.
Olive oil is a staple in many households, and it is an amazing moisturiser for your hair!  An honorary member of the natural hair movement, this moisturising oil has an illustrious history of performance among naturalistas everywhere. Some call it ’liquid gold’. Best applied post-wash while hair is still wet. The water will help the oil sink deeper into the hair, hydrating the hair and scalp. Once absorbed, it softens the hair, smoothing the cuticle making it easier to detangle, and on the surface, you’ll notice a lot more shine.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO) is amazing and easy to get hold of, cheap and probably already in your kitchen cupboard. It goes without saying that it needs to be extra virgin because it is cold pressed, unrefined and therefore retains all the properties that are beneficial to our hair and body.
Furthermore, EVOO is both a moisturising and sealing oil, meaning that it’s an oil that moisturises the hair strand but still leaves a protective layer around it, which is perfect for sealing in the moisture.   This oil is packed with antioxidants that help fight against free radicals to delay grey hairs, which also give EVOO its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties helping to fight off fungi and bacteria, such as dandruff.
EVOO also helps prevent or slow down hair loss has it blocks the production of the DTH hormone. Use it and you can expect your hair to be conditioned and moisturised as it will smooth your hair, help delay moisture loss and increase manageability.
 
Now, onto sealing oils. While moisturising oils can get inside your hair cuticle, a sealing oil will not be capable of penetrating the hair and does not offer moisture. However, do not discount this oil type. They still serve an important role in your hair care routine: locking in moisture. Best used after a thorough cleanse and application of hair moisturisers and other nourishing products. By adding a final layering of a sealing oil over the top your hair, you can trap and keep moisture in!  While these oils do keep added moisture in your hair, they don’t let any new moisture get in.
And remember! These usually heavy and thick oils will not be absorbed by your hair, which means that there will be a thick film over your hair once you’ve applied it.
Sealing oils are most commonly used to keep your hair soft and conditioned, so it stays shiny and nice for a longer!
 
Due to its thick honey-like consistency, Jamaican black castor oil is an excellent sealing oil for dense textures like 4b. 4c kinky, coily hair. Its easily spread, and a little goes a long way.  With just one application you notice your hair is softer and more pliable. On top of being a great moisture sealant, Jamaican Black Castor Oil is probably the most popular oil to aid in hair growth. When applied to the scalp directly, it’s said to help draw out impurities and stimulate blood flow, which helps other valuable nutrients get right to the hair follicle. This is how the growth spurt happens/ which stimulates hair growth!
If hair growth is your goal, consistency is key! Stick to a regimen of massaging oil into your hair (concentrating on your roots and scalp) at least twice a week for three months. Kinky coily hair textures typically need a heavier oil to keep moisture locked in and can benefit from this one big time!
Jojoba oil is a favourite ingredient in most shampoos and conditioners. The reason for this has everything to do with the oil’s conditioning properties. One the more appealing features about jojoba oil is that it is one of the few oils that most closely resembles the sebum, the natural oil that our hair produces. It is a very effective sealing oil; it has a much lighter consistency than Jamaican black castor oil. It and an added benefit is its soothing effect on the scalp!

If your scalp feels flaky and dry, try giving yourself a deep massage with jojoba oil. Due to its lighter consistency, it is a popular oil for thinner or finer hair. For scalp health, you want something that will soothe any irritation or dryness without making your roots look greasy. Jojoba delivers on both. It also works well as a lighter styler. Smooth over your curls to calm frizz and add shine.

Grapeseed oil has a plethora of benefits for natural hair. This oil is loaded with vitamin C, D, and E–all of which are useful in strengthening, building and repairing hair. It is best used after you’ve applied a leave-in conditioner to seal in that good moisture!
Hair that’s thin or fine can benefit greatly from grapeseed oil since it’s so lightweight. It will sit on top of strands to keep moisture in without weighing them down or make it feel greasy. The linoleic acid in grapeseed oil is not naturally produced by our bodies, so adding it topically can help control water loss in hair and slow or stop shedding. It also has a high resistance to heat, so you can try applying it to damp hair as a heat protectant if you diffuse or ever blow-out your curls.
If the smell of some of the above-mentioned oils bothers you, grapeseed oil has no scent, so this should be perfect for you!
 
 
 
This will protect your hair from shampoos that strip the natural oils from your hair. I believe this is the best time to use moisturising oils because they will protect the cortex of the hair. Coconut oil is proven to reduce protein loss and protect from hygral fatigue, but you can choose another oil.
 
Again, for greater results, use penetrating oils such as coconut oil, avocado oil, extra virgin olive oil or any other penetrating oil. Do this while you wash your hair it will add moisture retention, facilitate detangling, reduce frizz and single strand knots.
 
Blend your own DIY concoctions, mix oils mix for your homemade recipes or to enhance your store-bought deep conditioners. Because you are trying to nourish and moisturise your hair, use oils which are able to penetrate through the cuticle layers and into the cortex.
 
Use sealing oils to lock in the moisture after you have washed and moisturised your hair, when you want to protect the ends of your hair, or when you want some shine. You can also use it to avoid tangles or hair friction that can damage hair cuticles and cause split ends and holes in the hair shaft.
 
Use a sealing oil if you want to control your frizz or flyaway hair.  You can also use an oil that penetrates and seal at the same time such as grapeseed oil or argan oil. However, these leave a lighter protective film than a sealing oil.
 
 
Do you want to strengthen the cortex of your hair and protect it from washing, styling, chemical treatments and the environment?
Do you just want to seal in the moisture inside and avoid rapid evaporation?
 
If you said yes to the first you will want to use moisturising oils, and if you said yes to the second use sealing oils.
… if you don’t know or maybe it’s a mixture a both, use penetrating and sealing oils, either in an oil mix or by doing a pre-poo/oil rinse and then locking in the moisture.
 
If you have fine hair you may not like a heavy oil like castor or olive oil because they tend to weigh down your hair or/and make it greasy. On the other hand, coarser hair, high porosity hair, chemically treated or damaged hair may love them.
 

While you can layer hair oils to reap all the benefits (moisturising oils first, then sealing oils), you can also reach for products that contain some of both. These formulae wrap strands with moisture and protect against damage.
If you feel oil isn’t holding or sealing enough, try a soft but thick butter like raw shea butter. If butters and oils just aren’t for you, try sealing your hair with pure aloe vera juice after applying a leave-in. Its acidity is perfect for closing the cuticle.
Finding the perfect formula that enables your natural hair to hold hydration may seem impossible. You should know however that natural hair and moisture combined are not foreign concepts, no matter your hair type. However, some of us may have to work a bit harder than others to achieve moisture-rich natural hair.